Tuesday, July 13, 2010

On the Sunny Side: Ming Chen at Eastern Market

As I have written before and will write again, Eastern Market is a cultural crossroad, where if one chooses one can buy from and/or get to know people from all over the world. Have you ever thought about what forces of our modern era come together to bring so many to America? Have you ever lived outside this country? How many languages do you speak?
I, like many, became aware of being an American when I lived in another country. For me, it was France. I learned many things, one of which was how much Americans embrace our diversity through shopping and food. In our urban centers, we take for granted what many in others countries see as exotic or rare. I learned how much Americans embrace risk. After all, most of us have roots in other countries, and most folks emigrated to this continent by choice. I also learned that we collectively admire folks who come to this country and work hard to make a place for themselves and their families. And I learned all over again that one can witness the best of America in the cross-pollinating interactions that occur every weekend at Eastern Market.
Many exhibitors, farmers and produce merchants work seven days a week. Some even work two jobs a day, leaving Eastern Market after showing their wares for nine hours only to go on to different evening employment.
Ming Chen (or, in Chinese, Chen Ming) is one of those exhibitors. Mr. Chen was born in Shanghai, China in 1957. His father was from Canton and fought both in World War II and against Mao's eventual take over of China. His mother was born in Su Zhou, China.
After Ming finished high school, because of the cultural revolution in China he was unable to go to college. He started working in a factory and quickly advanced in this position, first becoming a small group leader and later a group leader. In 1980 China opened up its universities to the public; his factory recommended him and he began attending evening classes. Thus he worked eight hours a day, six days a week, and attended evening classes for accounting four days a week for three and half hours.
He was grateful for this chance. Ming completed his degree in accounting in two and half years. He was still at the same company, New Asia Pharmaceutical Company, but now he worked in the office as an accountant. In 1983, Ming was selected to become the first salesperson for this company. He worked in this capacity from 1983-1989.
In 1988 Ming received his first Chinese passport. He came to America on August 26, 1989. He went to Marymont University, where he studied English, and in 1990 he started working at Charlie Chiang's Oriental Cuisine Restaurant as a waiter. Chiang's is right next to the University of the District of Columbia. Again, Mr. Chen had good luck, and after only four months in this position he was asked to be the manager of a new Charlie Chiang's in Waldorf, Maryland. In 1993 he became general manager for the central kitchen and for all the carry-out eateries for all five of the restaurants in this chain.
In 1995, he left America and went back to China. He was head hunted by a Chinese restaurateur and became manager of 'Hong Kong City in Beijing' ,a fancy restaurant with five levels. Because of management disputes, he left this position and returned to America. China's loss is our gain. Ming Chen became a US citizen in 1999.
(Front entrance of the restaurant Ming manages)
In 2000, he and his wife Sunny started selling imported "bling" hand bags at Eastern Market. In conversation with Mr. Chen I enquired why he chose to come to sell imported goods at Eastern Market. He said that at first he came to support his wife, who started their stand at the Market. He came by himself when she went on a buying trip to China. He recalls it was Mother's Day 2000. He told me he had great sales, almost two hundred dollars, and he was very happy. After that he was determined to gain a permanent space and keep his name on the list for new exhibitors.
By 2000, Eastern Market had a reputation as a great place to show and sell art, imports and vintage items as well as buy produce and other foodstuffs, thanks to the hard work and dedication of John Harrod (founder of Market 5 Gallery and the arts and crafts festival), Tom Rall (founder of the Flea Market at Eastern Market), and the many exhibitors who had promoted outside activities to their innumerable clients over so many years. Hence it was, and still is, very tough for new exhibitors to get into the Market. Furthermore, because of the nature of the exhibiting (the rigors of being outside), being a permanent exhibitor at the Market is not for the faint of heart. It's hard and grueling being outside all year around. Ming "had the right stuff". He hung in for three years, and came on Friday nights, sleeping in his car on the chance of an open space on Saturdays.
He told me that somewhere in this process he started to love coming to the market because it was a different way to make money than working in a Chinese restaurant. He said he was "...always talking to different persons, learning that people do different things, from exhibitors to customers." Moreover, he stated that it was good "...to go outside, fresh air, different people each time. Different is
fun, not like only talking to Chinese people in Chine
se restaurants." Mr. Chen repeated several times his deeply felt sentiment that "different is fun."
(Ming at work at Chiang's Monday evening in the carryout section)
(Mr. Chen feeding and petting the Koi at the inside front entrance)
(Ming setting the table at one of the private dinning rooms)
Ming has now been at Eastern Market for ten years. Some where along the line he changed from importing Chinese beaded hand bags to importing Chinese jewelry and stringing fresh water Chinese pearls. He says he started a couple of years ago to try to make necklaces that matched the bags he sold. This evolved over time to the point where he and his wife are now importing, string, and knotting by hand freshwater pearl jewelry. His pearls come from Xian Cheng in Su Zhou, China. Mr. Chen has a cousin who is a pearl farmer in this region of China.
(Stringing and knotting fresh water pearls at the market)
(Ming and Sunny's stand at Eastern Market)
(Sunny and Ming's stand at the market)
As for so many at the Market--whether exhibitors, clients, farmers or produce merchants--coming to the market is a family affair. The same is true for the Chen family. Ming eldest son Yu Chu Chen works with is father at the market and also lends a hand at Charlie Chiang's Oriental Cuisine restaurant in the carry-out section.
(Ming's eldest son Yu Chu Chen working in the carry-out section of Chiang's)
Every weekend Ming Chen arrives at Eastern Market around 7:45am, where he works his market stand until 5:00pm. He then goes directly to Charlie Chiang's on Connecticut Avenue in North West Washington, where he is the general manager and works until closing around 11:00pm. I have dined in Ming's restaurant before, but I wanted to have a fresh look and images of his routine for this post, so, one recent Sunday after the market. I stopped by Chaing's again to have dinner and talk to Ming about his life. I allowed Ming to order for me. He asked did I want the Chinese-American cuisine or Chinese-Chinese cuisine. Of course, I wanted Chinese-Chinese cuisine. It was spicy, complex and delicious: onion cakes, crispy anchovies with fresh peanuts in hot sauce, a Manchurian dish of shrimp with basil, a traditional dish of the south of China Yun Provence, and finally a traditional Szechuan dish called Shui-Zhu hot and spicy chicken. The food was so good, and I had so many more questions, that I went back to speak more with Ming a week later on a Monday evening. This time I had Chinese broccoli with garlic--wonderful.
(Chinese broccoli with garlic)
(seseme cakes and peanuts and anchovies)
I am not the only Eastern Market exhibitor or client who has found her way to the restaurant that Ming manages. Ming Chen is among many "new" Americans at Eastern Market who import or make art and show it at the Market. We are richer for their presence in our country and at our Eastern Market.
Witnessing,
(Ming working at his stand at Eastern Market)
Sonda T. Allen
(Mr. Ming Chen sunday evening at Chiang's takes a moment to talk)
Turtle's Webb